Gross National Happiness

A short walk from campus, I was suddenly greeted by one of the most profound sights I have ever been a witness to (see picture above). This majestic scene unfolded before me as I strolled down the winding dirt road to the Dobi. Lugging a bag filled to the brim with dirty clothes behind me, I was eager to reach my final destination; a small hut in which the Dobi makes a living by washing the clothes of students and other persons around the campus. Yes, we do have washing machines, however, just TRY to hang your clothes up on the line without them being stolen (we don’t have dryers here). Besides, it feels pretty fantastic to support the life of the Dobi and his family, while at the same time receiving the cleanest, most well-pressed, and fragrant shirts, pants, socks, and underwear (they call these “hot pants”). Whether assigned to laundry, construction or the custodial arts, countless individuals dedicate their time and effort to the upkeep and enhancement of the school.

Speaking of enhancement, the social life here on campus has made several dramatic strides in the right direction. First and foremost, I have established a tightly-knit group of guy friends, who constantly shower me with gifts, favors, and Bhutanese wine (Ara). Every breakfast, lunch and dinner consists of riveting conversations—these range from cultural idiosyncrasies to Dzongkha lessons (all the dirty words of course) and even to girls…I successfully stay out of this one most of the time—love you Jessie :-P. Additionally, I have become much more accustomed to the city and the life within it. I can successfully navigate my way from the bus stop to the “American Restaurant,” where, for only 150 Nu. (3 American Dollars), I can get myself a good ole’ hamburger. My excitement is suddenly dampened when I see that “hamburger” is not on the menu…instead, my only choice is “ham bugger.” Typo or general misunderstanding?

As I sit staring at the view you see in the above picture, I am told by my good friend Yonten that Bhutan is the only place is the world where the ground touches the sky; the last Shangri-La. He explains the important of patience and the virtue that accompanies living in BST (Bhutan Stretched Time). As each day passes here, I become more comfortable and begin to really establish my element in the Land of the Thunder Dragon. Each day is filled with new sights, sounds, perceptions and adventures—including the every-expanding radio show, In the Mix with Raffi and Atsu (every Monday, Tuesday and Saturday). My dad is pretty intent on visiting at this point to help the radio set up online streaming; still working on mom, although I surely have the upper hand at this point.

To close, I’d like to take you through one of the most incredible nights I have had thus far in Bhutan. On Saturday night, I was invited to attend dinner at the house of the school’s director. Also in attendance was the king’s general, the sister of King IV, and the most popular author in Bhutan. We ate an extensive feast and talked for hours about every aspect of Bhutanese society as well as my own goals and aspirations. I even managed to score some gifts for certain people back at home (wink wink). As the evening came to a close, I played a bit of basketball with the general, received a massive bag of fresh fruit, and was taken home. It was both an honor and a unique privileged to be in the honor of both royalty and other highly respected country members—do I smell another trip to Bhutan in my future? Whose in?

Stay out of Bardo
Raffi

In some phantasmagorical turn of events, I’ve managed to score some decent ‘net. Although uploading pictures at this point may be futile, there’s no harm posting a nice, chunky monologue, performed by yours truly. So, as the great Edd Byrnes (Vince Fontaine) so eloquently exclaimed before Danny Zuko and Cha-Cha won the dance competition, “put your mittens around your kittens and away we go!”

Since my last post, a substantial paradigm shift has taken place—discomfort and fear of the unknown has matured into a continuous sense of adventure and opportunity. With classes in full swing and the college community in a social frenzy, “Mr. R” or “Sweet” has found his way into the hearts and minds of the immediate population. After DJ-ing at the school dance, getting offered a weekend DJ-ing gig at the hottest club in town, and blasting my own music on the national radio station, I have successfully created a “Sweet” market (unintentionally, of course and with no pun intended).

Lately, I have also dedicated myself to the improvement of the community on several levels. I am currently working as a writing tutor and possibly even teaching my own “Introduction to College” class on behalf of the newly-established Learning Resource Center. I must admit, I am a bit skeptical about actually teaching in my own classroom—I have no doubts regarding my potential teaching skills; my worry rests only in my physical stature. How are kids going to learn to respect someone half their size? No matter…hopefully the “rule of thumb” has not been outlawed in this country (only kidding; relax.)

Additionally, I have started my internship at Kuzoo radio. On Monday’s and Tuesday’s, I will be hosting a two-hour contemporary music show (still trying to think of a good name). This will feature the latest in western Rock, Rap, Hip-Hop and R&B music. During this show, I will also be performing self-written and self-produced programs dealing with current issues in Bhutan (I have been reading three different newspapers daily in order to gain a thorough understanding of current events). This will include personal opinions, excerpts from newspapers and speeches and the opportunity for others to call in and contribute their two cents. Although I will only be here for 11 weeks or so, my plan is to establish a nationally respected radio show with substantial potential for longevity. If all goes according to plan, the Sweet family will also make it possible for Kuzoo to stream the radio station online! When this is established, I will be sure to post the link as well as the times of my shows. Who knows? Maybe you’ll even want to call in and contribute your own words!

In tandem with all of my school work, these activities have certainly established themselves as time-consuming projects. In this sense, it is essential to have some leisure time in which I can let loose any frustrations or general stress. For this, I turn to basketball, soccer, and running. Although intense exercise at 9,000 feet is a LITTLE different than exercise anywhere in the US (or most places in the world, for that matter), my lungs and heart have finally started to adjust to the altitude change. Word on the street is that the body takes roughly a month to become acclimated…someone’s making a lot of assumption. In all seriousness, I feel much healthier and physically fit in contrast with my feelings in the first week or two. The school even has a gym, which I plan to visit on a regular basis.

Running has proved to be an unbelievably peaceful experience here at RTC. Resting in a deep, green valley, RTC is surrounded by long, winding trails among lush fauna and infinite forms of life. I find in this a deep sense of peace and connectedness to the natural word; an unmatched “runner’s high.” Losing my way on these runs has been the most rewarding feeling of all. Before this, I did not know that I could truly find myself by getting lost. I’ll take some pictures on my next run.

After next week, I will be a quarter of the way through this trip. The thought is overwhelming. How can time move so slow and yet, so fast at the same time. With all of this work and the prospect of three or four treks out into the country, there is no question that time will continue to accelerate. My hope is to embody the essence of “Bhutan Time.” My wish is to reach the spiritual level in which I may regard time as what it really is; impermanence—not necessarily something that passes you by, but instead, something you yourself choose to control, manipulate, and flourish in.

“If you want to know your past life, look into your present condition; if you want to know your future life, look at your present actions.” -Guru Rinpoche

Raffi

Hello to all you dedicated readers out in cyberspace. First and foremost, let me apologize for the lateness of this third post; I have learned that the term “high-speed internet” is quite relative here in Bhutan. Thankfully, I have spent the last several days running around campus with my laptop, trying to find a decent signal. Have no fear, the blog is back with a vengeance. Also, for all the photos I’ve taken thus far, visit the photo section of my Facebook page.

After landing at Paro Airport in Bhutan, we were greeted by the most astounding 360 degree panorama I have ever seen; nothing but rolling green hills, hugged by majestic white clouds. Not a bad place to be:

Jet lagged, tired, and quite smelly, we rushed through customs, exchanged some American Dollars for Bhutanese Ngultrum, and caught a ride to our hotel.

Tenziling Hotel in Paro far exceeded our expectations. The second we arrived in the parking lot, staff members ran down and greeted us enthusiastically. Before we knew what had happened, they had loaded our bags off the van and into our rooms—talk about service! The three days we spent at the hotel proved to be more of a Bhutanese vacation than anything else; the days were spent hiking beautiful trails, eating spicy, colon-busting meals, and exploring the land. Below are a handful of photos from our time in Paro, along with explanations:

Not exactly a Motel 6….

We spent the first three days of our trip here among an incredibly helpful and energetic staff. Days were spent on eye-opening excursions, most of which involved a great deal of hiking. Getting used to the altitude proved to be quite a difficult feat and, naturally, returning to the hotel after the days adventures was a blessing. Nights here were spent eating, drinking, laughing, and even occasionally attending a hotel dance party. Apparently, even being on the other side of the planet can’t get me away from Miley Cyrus and Justin Bieber…

View from the back balcony of my hotel room….ghastly, isn’t it? I’ll understand completely if you want to look away…   ;)

Chances are, you know exactly what these are—for those who don’t, feast your eyes on prayer wheels. Rumor has it spinning just one of these babies (spin it clockwise or you’ll be reincarnated as a fly) is equivalent to saying hundreds of thousands of prayers. These prayers are meant to cleanse the soul and the sins associated with it. I have literally spun every single prayer wheel I’ve seen since my arrival…lord knows I need it.

I’ve died an gone to heaven. After a 3 hour hike, we found ourselves at the most characteristic site of Bhutan; The Tiger’s Nest. This profound Buddhist temple was built thousands of years ago and is home to some of the most beautiful shrines in the world. Resting on the edge of a giant cliff, it is certainly one of the wonders of our world. Unfortunately, I was forced to surrender my camera at the entrance, and so all I have are my memories….they are MORE than enough. Additionally, something profound occurred in one of these shrines while I was in the midst of a deep meditation. I’ll save the story for those who ask me personally—lets just say the most important and passion-filled aspect of my life was reinforced exponentially.

After our Bhutanese vacation, we packed up and headed to RTC (Royal Thimphu College) in Thimphu, Bhutan. We moved in with our Bhutanese roommates and were instantly thrown into the middle of orientation.

Two words: CULTURE SHOCK!!!!

I admit that I was super uncomfortable during the first few days at RTC. The guys were very warm and welcoming, however, the girls didn’t even look at me. I wasn’t sure if it was because they couldn’t pronounce it or because it is their odd way of flirting, but I’ve been given the nicknames “Mr. R” and “Sweet” by the females here at RTC. Not complaining—doesn’t give anyone the chance to call me “Ralphie.” The food here is fantastic, but SPICY. For those of us whose stomachs can’t handle the cuisine (*cough cough, Devon), there are an unlimited supply of Kit Kats available for purchase at the canteen.

After settling in, I have met some astounding people who I am sure will become lifelong friends. Classes have started and I have secured positions as both a writing tutor and a possible psychology tutor as well. Additionally, I have started my internship at Kuzoo FM, Bhutan’s most popular radio station. Here I will be hosting my own show, producing reports on Bhutanese culture, conducting interviews with local musicians and community members and judging weekly singing competitions, similar to American Idol. You can bet that I will become the Simon Cowell of the competition and will probably sneak in a few of my own songs along the way.

I would like to leave you with this final photo of the eight Wheaton students, along with several of our Bhutanese friends. As you can see, the group is predominantly female…not something to complain about. The girls we have met are very in touch with the city of Thimphu (where we spend a great deal of time) and are a great deal quieter than the boys, which is quite necessary at the end of the day.

The king of Bhutan is visiting the school tomorrow and has asked specifically to meet the eight students from Wheaton College. I’ve never met a king before…I hope my hair looks okay.

Om a huum

Bazra guru

Beh ma sidi huum

Raffi

Sitting in Narita International Airport (Tokyo), I’m giving many thanks to whatever higher power has bestowed wireless internet upon me. I was intent on publishing at least one blog entry before actually arriving in Bhutan and, thanks to our five hour layover, now is most certainly an appropriate time. Speaking of time, I have absolutely no idea of the date or time. My watch is still set to EST and I’m certainly stubborn enough to keep it that way. After about 18 hours of travel, I could really use a break—unfortunately, I wont actually find my footing for the next 20 hours or so. For the remainder of this entry, let me give you a quick overview of my trip thus far.

I awoke at 3:30am after two hours of sleep (I couldn’t tear myself away from my girlfriend’s beautiful face on videochat). Rolling out of bed, I threw on a t-shirt and sweats and sped off towards the airport with my mother and father. For any of you living in or near a major city, you know how convenient and slightly eerie it is to be the only car driving downtown at some ungodly hour. We arrived at Logan International Airport at about 4:30am and, after hugs, kisses and best wishes from my parents, I headed inside to International Check-In. This process, as well as security, moved quickly and quietly, due to the fact that every person in the airport at this time was a sleep-deprived zombie. The whining of a young child in the security line was enough to elicit groans and scoffs.

My first flight to San Francisco was dubbed, “essential nap-time.” This was where I could recharge my batteries and prepare myself for the horrors of international travel (maybe I’m being a tad melodramatic). I bunched my sweatshirt into a quasi-pillow and rested my head on the tray table. As I began to enter the wonderful world of peace and relaxation, a rather portly man in front of me reclined his seat enough to make significant contact with the top of my head. Needless to say, sleep was not likely. Instead, I plugged in my headphones and let my I-Pod do the rest…thank you Coldplay. Arriving at SFO, I quickly made my way to the International Terminal and almost immediately boarded my flight to Tokyo. This plane, the 747, proved to be more of a flying hotel than an aircraft:

Let me just say one thing—the Japanese flight crew on this aircraft was second-to-none. During our ten hour flight, we were given two meals, countless snacks and all the free drinks we could consume. Nap time was within my grasp. Two glasses of red wine and two gin and tonics later, I was in a coma. During my waking hours, the flight was unbelievably smooth and pleasant. My one criticism was the showing of the new Miley Cyrus and Greg Kinnear movie. This proved to be so forgettable that I forgot the name less than an hour after the credits rolled…oh well.

18 hours of travel done…about 20 more hours to go. I can only hope that as the old, senile man that I will become, I will look back on these days with great joy and a sense of accomplishment. I am so grateful that I was given the opportunity to turn my life upside-down and inside-out. I’m ready to be thrown on out my comfort zone. My next entry will be from Paro, Bhutan (provided I can get internet). I promise to post shots of our flight to Bhutan (yes, we will be flying directly over Mt. Everest) as well as shots of the group and the beautiful Paro Valley. Please continue to follow the blog, reply with your own thoughts, comments or questions and spread this blog to anyone else who may be interested.

Namaste

Raffi